Descriptions:
3D-Druck im Modellbau | Creality Hi Combo | guter, günstiger 3D-Drucker für Einsteiger und Profis?
Beschreibung zum Video:
Timeline:
00:00 Einleitung / Introduction
01:26 was wird geliefert / whats in the box
04:15 Montage Drucker / printer assembly
06:48 CFS Installation / installation cfs
08:10 Ersteinrichtung / commissioning
09:31 technische Daten des Combos / technical datas
14:00 der erste Druck / first print
16:34 ein erstes Fazit / first conclusion
Erhältlich ist der Drucker hier:
available here:
DTC:
Amazon (Creality Hi):
#creality #crealitydeutschland #printer #creality3d #3DDrucker #multicolorprinter #3dprinting #Drucker #3Ddrucker
Hier zeige ich euch einen günstigen einsteigerfreundlichen 3D Drucker, der mit bis zu 16 Farben drucken kann.
Ich zeige euch in diesem Video die Creality Hi Combo mit Drucker und einer CFS für Drucke mit 4 Farben.
Ob der Drucker wirklich so einfach zu montieren und zu bedienen ist, seht ihr in diesem ersten Teil!
Here I’ll show you an affordable, beginner-friendly 3D printer that can print with up to 16 colors.
In this video, I’ll show you the Creality Hi Combo with a printer and a CFS for 4-color printing.
You’ll see in this first part whether the printer is really that easy to assemble and use!
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Vollständiger Text aus dem Video: 3D-Druck im Modellbau | Creality Hi Combo | guter, günstiger 3D-Drucker für Einsteiger und Profis?
Hinweis: Text aus der automatischen Spracherkennung aus dem Video ist allgemein bekannt ungenau!
Yes, hello and welcome to my channel for a new video from me. Today I have something completely different for you, but also something that is great for model making and can be used. Many people already have one, of course, namely a 3D printer, the High Combo from Creality. It’s not just a simple 3D printer, it can also print in multiple colors. That’s why the combo also comes with a so-called CFS, into which you can insert four filament rolls. But I’ll show you all about that in a moment. Creality told me that this printer is good, cheap, easy to set up and also beginner-friendly. That’s perfect, of course, because who has that much money? Who doesn’t want to have great print results as easily as possible. And I’m also a complete beginner when it comes to 3D printing. I did have a really cheap DIY printer years ago, but it was more bad than good, so I thought, since Creity asked so nicely, I’d try out the printer for you. Creity kindly provided me with the printer but didn’t give me any instructions, and I will use the printer of my own free will. 3D printing beginners , let’s try it out for you. So don’t expect any major internal voltage tests or power measurements here. There will be other videos for that. We will first unpack the combo and look at what’s included. Then we will of course assemble the printer or combo. We will carry out the initial installation and of course print a first model. It should all be very easy to do, which is exactly the right thing for me. I’ll be surprised if it’s really that easy. I would say let’s get started right away. Have fun. Yes, then I would say let’s cut open the box with a cutter knife and take a look at what’s included. The very first thing we see here is that everything is very well cushioned in foam and well secured for transport. First of all, we have three different PTFE tubes which will be used later to guide the filament. We’ll see where we use them later. Next, we have two connection cables for the CFS. Here we also have a long and a short cable. We also have a double-sided adhesive pad where we can attach the filament hub to the printer. Then we have the filament hub that I just mentioned. Here we can connect up to four CFS to be able to print with a total of 16 colors. Then we have the first large pack here, namely the filament exchange system, also called CFS. We then have to remove the foam guides and the film from this . We can then insert up to four filament rolls later. I will show you how this all works in a moment. Next we have instructions on how to unpack the print bed. Next we have a small sample pack with white filament, which we can then use for the first print. Reality has kindly provided me with four 1 kg filament rolls. Unfortunately, there are only two white and two grey rolls here for now, but I think I will get a few more colored rolls. Next we have the power cable, which luckily already has an EU Schuko plug. Then we have a bag with lots of material in it. First we have a sticker sheet from Creality. Then an After Sales Service Card. Of course, we also have the two manuals, one for the printer and one for the CFS both instructions are also in German and also well described then we have a small filament guide here in case we are not using the CFS then a wire pick in case the nozzle should be clogged we also have a small side cutter and another bag in here there are three cable ties some tools for assembling the printer a replacement cleaning stick for the nozzle a tube of grease for lubrication two small plastic covers for the print bed and the few assembly screws that we need to assemble the printer next We also have a filament roll holder here if we are only working with one filament roll without CFS. Then we come to the actual printer. First of all, we have the X and Z axis gantry with the print head. This is also already neatly pre-assembled. We’ll take a closer look at this later when the printer is assembled. And last but not least, we also have the print bed. As you can see, I took it out of the packaging a bit incorrectly, but we already have the flexible print bed support. You should actually pull the print bed out of the foam box first, including the tensioning straps , and then loosen the tensioning straps. This worked for me, but as you can see, it worked. The print bed is also fully assembled with all the cables. We’ll of course take a closer look at this in a moment. Then we’ll see an overview of the entire scope of delivery for the combo. I would say the next step is to assemble the printer and connect the CFS. To assemble the printer, we need the pre-assembled print bed and the X and Z axis gantry, and of course the fastening screws. and an Allen key First, we need to push the print bed forward to make the two gantry mounts accessible Then we simply need to take the X and Z-axis gantry and insert it into the two designated mounts with the print head facing forward and insert it all the way to the bottom First, we need the four M4 screws for the main attachment of the gantry The supports are then screwed on from above with two screws each, once on the left and of course once on the right Then we turn the printer over and need the two M3 screws for the additional attachment on the back Again, screw in one screw on the left side and one on the right side and tighten it This will then completely secure the gantry Next, we can remove the securing tape from the cable connections on both sides and then on the right side plug the large and small plugs into the respective sockets and insert the protruding cables as completely as possible into the opening We then do the same with the single plug on the other side Here too, we need to make the cable disappear as completely as possible into the opening Then we can insert the two plastic covers on both sides and thus the cables are safely hidden then we next need to plug the ribbon cable into the control unit of the X-axis to do this we need to carefully push the X-axis upwards to expose the upper cable clip then we take the ribbon cable and have to fasten it with the two clips ideally straight away so that the cable with the plug is connected the right way round then we simply have to plug the plug the right way round at the top into the control unit and that’s it then we can then assemble the single filament spool holder it has a bayonet lock which we simply have to plug in and twist and then it is completely assembled if we want to work with it it just has to be attached to the top of the portal bridge at the marked point and clipped in place then it is already rock solid then we only have to screw the filament guide onto the filament spool holder using the small screw that is left over then insert a PTFE tube at the top of the guide and of course on the print head also to dismantle the PTFE tube we then simply press the black ring down a little and then we can pull the tube out. Finally we have the swiveling display at the bottom. We can remove the protective film from there and thus the Creality High is already completely assembled. [Music] [Music] next we connect the CFS with the printer. For this we need the two connection cables, two PTFE tubes, the adhesive pad and the filament hub, which we first have to attach to the printer. To do this, we simply take the double-sided clip pad, stick it to the back of the filament hub, and then we can stick it on the outside of the right gantry support. I’ve positioned it roughly in the middle here. Then we need to hold the filament hub lever up and then insert a PTFE tube from above until it stops. The other end goes back into the nozzle, of course. I used the shorter tube for this. Then we take the CFS and the longer connection cable. Plug this into the right side of the print bed and the other end into the CFS. Then we take the shorter connection cable, plug this into the outer slot of the CFS, and the other end goes into the back of the filament hub. Then we take another PTFE tube, plug this into the back of the CFS, and the other end into one of the four inlets on the filament hub. The last step is to plug the power cable into the back of the print bed. This completes the assembly of the Creity High Combo, and we can then start with the initial setup of the printer. [Music] Of course, we need to switch the printer on first, then it will appear. The Creality logo on the display stays like that for about a minute without anything happening. Then we can choose the menu language. Unfortunately, it only has Chinese and English at the moment. Then it shows that the build space above the print bed has to be free. That’s the case for me. So we can press OK here. Then there’s the usual data protection stuff. We have to click on that once and then click OK. Then we have to select the Wi-Fi network we want to use, enter the password. When the network has been found and the connection has been established, we can press OK. Next we have to set the time zone. Since we have daylight saving time here, we have to click on UTC + 2 and then click OK again. I’ll skip the registration with the Creality Cloud for now. Then we can start the self-check in the next step. The printer will then start to calibrate all axes, check all settings and calibrate the print bed. This can take some time, around 10 to 15 minutes. When it’s finished, depending on the delivery state, a company update may have to be carried out. We have to download this once in the first step . Then The whole thing is installed and then we are asked to carry out the self-check again. So it’s best to click on everything here and carry out the complete self-check again. Once that’s done, confirm with okay and then the first installation of the printer is already carried out and successfully completed. Then of course I’ll give you a few technical details of the combo. First of all, the Creality High printer itself. You’ve already seen that it’s easy to assemble. It’s 95% pre-assembled. We also have a really classy and stylish design with a sturdy housing made of solid metal or aluminum, just like the print bed. This means that we also have a weight of around 9 kg. The print volume here is 260 x 260 x 300 mm, which is pretty decent. The printer has automatic print bed calibration, which means that if it’s activated, you’ll have the perfect first layer with every print. On the left side there is an RFID chip for automatic filament detection, so just hold the Creality filament to it and all the necessary data will be detected and recorded by the printer. On the right side there is a USB port for transferring models from a USB stick alternatively models can also be transferred to the printer via WLAN or via the Creity Cloud the internal memory of the Creality High is 8 GB also on the right side there is a foldable and swiveling easy to read 3.2 inch touch display with which we can make the settings on the back we then have the off switch and the power connection we have installed FOC stepper servo motors for the XY axis and two normal stepper motors for the Z axis these ensure a relatively quiet operation of around 48 DB and a printing speed Up to 500 mm per second with an acceleration of up to 12000 mm per second squared. The specified printing accuracy here at 100 mm is approximately plus-0.1 mm with a layer thickness of 0.1 to 0.35 mm. At the front of the stylish print head there is a direct extruder made of steel. A trimetal nozzle with a hardened steel tip with a diameter of 0.4 mm. The housing has a double fan which ensures good cooling. On the front of the print head we have a turbine-like opening and above it an illuminated Creality logo which rotates during printing when the extruder draws in filament. On the right side of the print head we have a filament cutter which is also automatically used by the printer as the printer moves to the right against the stop of the X-axis. On the left side of the X-axis we have a filament stripper where the nozzle can strip off excess filament. Here in the right corner of the X-axis we have a small camera built in which is also connected to a Privacy protection can be covered. Timelapse recordings of the print can also be recorded using this. The print bed has a specified power of 1000 watts AC, which means it reaches 60° in just 30 seconds and 100° in about 90 seconds. A maximum of 300° print bed temperature can be reached. On the back of the print bed we have a metal plate which is probably necessary for calibrating the nozzle and to the right of it a cleaning pad where the nozzle can be cleaned before printing. Printing is done on a flexible double-sided epoxy print plate, which means good adhesion when printing but at the same time the finished models are very easy to remove. The dimensions of the 3D printer are 409 x 392 x 477 mm. Supported file formats are Gcode and 3MF. You can use Creality Print or Creality Cloud as slicing software, where you can even slice models with your smartphone. The filament hub included in the combo allows you to connect up to 4 CFS and thus print with a total of 16 colors. This brings us to the technical data of the CFS just mentioned the CFS is made mostly of plastic has an LCD display in the front area which shows the temperature and humidity inside the CFS there is also a small status LED for each filament compartment whether a roll is inserted or not we can open the somewhat transparent hood after moving the two locks and then insert up to four compatible filament rolls into the CFS the roll diameter should be between 197 and 202 mm and a thickness of 42 to 68 mm here too RF ID chips are installed which automatically recognise the Creality filament and pass the data on to the printer all four filament roll positions have an automatic filament feed which means you simply push the end of the filament into the PTFE tube and the loading into the printer is carried out automatically the CFS also automatically changes the filament during multi-colour printing so that the filament cannot accidentally jump over there are four spring-loaded hold-down devices at the top of the hood which, when the hood is closed, act on the Press filament rolls and thus prevent skipping. We do not have an active drying of the filament here. There are only two compartments on the bottom into which you can put drying granulate packets, which then absorb the moisture. Since the automatic filament change takes place completely in the CFS, we only have one filament output on the back. The power supply here is via the printer. The CFS has a nominal power of 20 watts, weighs 4.5 kg and has a size of 379 x 314 x 276 mm. I made the first print without the CFS with the single filament holder. To do this, we simply have to remove the filament roll. I am now using the originals from Quality with the RF ID chip, which you can then simply hold up to the RF ID chip reader on the print bed so that the filament values are recognized. Then we only need to put the roll into the top of the roll holder and then insert the filament end into the PDF tube until Push it down and then pull the lever on the print head and push the filament through to the stop. You can now see that the printer has already recognized the filament. The first part I chose was the Westbox. The file is already saved on the printer, so you just have to go to the files here, select the model, then we have to turn off the CFS because we are not using it, and then we can simply click on Print and if calibration is activated, the printer will then start calibrating, level the print bed, draw the filament, clean the nozzle again and then start printing. We’ll take a look at a few shots now and then we’ll see you again in a minute. [Music] [Music] [Music] So the printer is now finished printing, everything goes back to the park position, then we can confirm the successful print with okay, now the practical magnetic print support comes into play, we can simply remove it and can then very easily detach the model from the plate, then clean it a bit and then we can use the wastebx if we use the filament individually. and want to remove it from the printer again , we go back to the material menu, then click on retrack, then hold the print nozzle back on, the print head moves to the side against the filament cutter and cuts the filament once, then we have to pull the lever on the print head again and can then pull the filament out and pack the spool again, yes, at the end of the first part we come to a short conclusion as to whether Creality’s promises have been kept, I can definitely confirm that for now, you have seen, the printer is very easy to set up, without filming, I would say about 10 to 15 minutes maximum, the initial setup was also really easy, you just have to follow the instructions on the display, which of course takes a while because it calibrates everything once, but you don’t have to do anything else, the printer does it all by itself, in terms of quality, the printer really makes a very good impression, visually I think it’s very stylish with all the aluminum here, it’s a really nice printer, and in terms of price I think you can’t complain, the whole combo costs less than €500 at the time of the video. I think it’s a really fair price for what you get here. I’ve already made my first printers. As you ‘ve just seen, I printed the race box here and I’m completely convinced by the quality. Everything was printed really cleanly here and of course you do have to smooth out the edge at the bottom a bit with a sandpaper or emery board, but I think the print quality is really good. I’ve printed a small bracket here too, which was already on the printer. As far as I can see, there are no printing errors, so everything is printed very cleanly. I also did the high-speed test here again, which was also on the printer. It’s now printed really thinly and has become really flexible, but it worked really well. The surfaces look really nice. There are a few tiny spots at the bottom, but it’s not completely closed, so it’s not really waterproof. But in general, I think the surface of the prints is really, really good. I’ve printed it out of the CFS with white filament, which was also very easy, but I’ll show you how to print with the CFS, and also how to print in color with the CFS, in a second video. I’ll show you how to print a few colorful models and I hope it’s just as easy and I can also show you how to color the models in the slicer. Finally, I can say from my first experience that the printer is definitely beginner-friendly. We were able to assemble it easily. We were able to carry out the first installation easily and we were able to make the first print very easily. For this video I would say that’s it for now, the link and all information about the printer is of course in the video description below. First of all I would like to say thank you for watching, but please write to me in the comments what you think of the printer, please leave me a like, don’t forget to subscribe so you won’t miss any more videos and I would say hopefully we’ll see each other again in the next video, see you then your Chrissi ciao
Für den Inhalt des Videos ist der VideoCreator: Chrissi RC verantwortlich.
#3DDruck #Modellbau #Creality #Combo #guter #günstiger #3DDrucker #für #Einsteiger #und #Profis
chrissi rc, source
hätte ich auch schon ganz gerne… 😁👍👍👍
Ich fange jetzt erst an mich mit dem Thema zu beschäftigen und bin gleich begeistert von der Arbeit und der Qualität …
Der Preis scheint auch in Ordnung zu sein, denn alles was ich bisher gesehen habe war teurer. Für mich ein klarer 👍🏼 Danke für das Video 🎉
Was haltet ihr von dem Drucker? Schreib es mir gerne einmal in die Kommentare!