Creality Hi Combo | Teil 2 | Mehrfarben-Druck mit dem CFS | macht sowas wirklich Sinn?

Creality Hi Combo | Teil 2 | Mehrfarben-Druck mit dem CFS | macht sowas wirklich Sinn?

Beschreibung zum Video:
Erhältlich ist der Drucker hier:
(affiliate)
available here:

Timeline:
00:00 Einleitung / Introduction
00:45 Filament in CFS laden / loading filament
02:17 Modelle Drucken in Creality Print / printing wirth creality Print
05:04 Modelle von der Cloud / printing wirth creality cloud
06:21 Drucken vom Handy / printing wirth smartphone
07:08 Druckergebnisse und Fazit / prinzs and conclusion

Erhältlich ist der Drucker hier: (affiliate)
available here:

#creality #crealitydeutschland #printer #creality3d #3DDrucker #multicolorprinter #3dprinting #Drucker #3Ddrucker

Hier zeige ich euch einen günstigen einsteigerfreundlichen 3D Drucker, der mit bis zu 16 Farben drucken kann.
Ich zeige euch in diesem Video die Creality Hi Combo mit Drucker und einer CFS für Drucke mit 4 Farben.
Ob der Drucker wirklich so einfach zu montieren und zu bedienen ist, seht ihr in diesem ersten Teil!

Here I’ll show you an affordable, beginner-friendly 3D printer that can print with up to 16 colors.
In this video, I’ll show you the Creality Hi Combo with a printer and a CFS for 4-color printing.
You’ll see in this first part whether the printer is really that easy to assemble and use!

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Amazon (Creality Hi):

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Vollständiger Text aus dem Video: Creality Hi Combo | Teil 2 | Mehrfarben-Druck mit dem CFS | macht sowas wirklich Sinn?
Hinweis: Text aus der automatischen Spracherkennung aus dem Video ist allgemein bekannt ungenau!

Yes, hello and welcome to the second video about the Creality High Combo. In the last video, I already introduced you to the printer and the CFS in more detail and showed you how easy it is to assemble and set up. I’ve also already made a few test printers. If you haven’t seen the video yet, I’ll link it up here. Today I’ll show you what it looks like when you print in multiple colors with the CFS. I won’t go into detail about the slicer; there’s Creality Print, for example, but you can use any other program if you want. Besides, the settings are so individual that everyone has their own ideas, and this is mainly about the printer. Today I’m going to load two or three models from the cloud, for example, and print them in multiple colors, showing you what that looks like and what the CFS does. After that, we’ll take a closer look at the models and talk about the pros and cons of multi-color printing. I’d say let’s get started right away. Have fun. Before the fun can begin, we obviously have to turn the printer back on and wait until it has fully booted up. Then we select the filament we want to print with. Here, for example, I have white Hyper PLA from Creality on a plastic spool. This also has an RF ID chip built in. This means we can simply insert such a spool into the CFS and then the printer will recognize the filament automatically, as I already mentioned in the first video that the CFS also has an RFID chip reader at each spool position. Then I have various colored filaments here. This is also all Hyper PLA from Creality, but on a PUA spool. And here, there is no RFID chip built in. We can also insert the spools into the CFS as usual, but then set the data manually via the display. First, let’s load all four filaments into the CFS. To do this, simply take the filament end and push it into the PTFE tube until the CFS grabs the filament automatically. From then on, we don’t have to do anything else because the CFS now retracts the filament automatically and then puts it into a parking position. We’ll do this with all the spools we want to use with the CFS. We’ll then see in the materials menu on the printer display that spool 1, where the RF ID chip is, has already been recognized by the printer and all the data is set correctly, while the other three spools have not. To set this up, we simply click on the respective spool slot in the CFS in the materials menu. Here, for example, select slot 2, then go to Edit, and here you can set the manufacturer and type of filament, the color, and the temperatures. We’ll do this with all the spools that don’t have an RFID chip, and then we can go to the PC and the slicer. First, we open Creality Print and the first thing we need to do is add the printer to the program. We do this very easily up here using the Device tab. Then click on Add Scan, and the Wi-Fi network will be scanned and the printer will be searched for. For this, the printer must of course be turned on and connected to Wi-Fi. The printer will then be found here. Then we need to click on it once and click the plus sign. The printer is now linked to the program. You can, of course, adjust a ton of settings here, but as I said, I won’t go into detail about the slicer here. There are already various extra videos online for that, and I won’t make any major adjustments here. I’ll just print the models as they are offered here, to show how they print without any adjustments. Fine-tuning all the printing parameters is a science in itself. First, though, I’ll load a self-created 3DSL of my YouTube logo to color it and print it in color. I need to align it here first. But you can also let the program do it automatically. Then, as mentioned, we need to color the model. There is then the coloring icon up here and we can now choose which color we want to use to color which part of the model and then we can, for example, simply click on it to color it in the desired color. I’m going to do this once with all the letters. After that, you can slice the model and here you can see the finished sliced model. Then I simply go to send to printer to start printing from the PC. The printer display now shows that the printer has received the data. It starts with the self-test and when that is finished, it quickly cleans the nozzle of any old filament and then starts printing. Here you can also clearly see how it also places the tower next to it during color printing. Of course, it has to do this in every layer to keep the tower evenly height. Here you can now see how the CFS works and pulls in the filament bit by bit and also how the filament reel works to supply the print nozzle evenly with filament. Here we can see a filament change. First, the old filament is automatically cut off and then retracted by the CFS. The CFS then automatically takes the new color and sends it to the print head. The nozzle is then cleaned of old filament three or four times before printing continues. In this case, very, very briefly, and then the filament is changed again. When the print is finished, the used filament is cut off again and retracted by the CFS so that no filament is left in the system. To release the print, we just have to remove the magnetic print plate, which we can then bend because it is flexible. This releases the print relatively quickly and we can remove it very easily. If we want to remove a filament spool from the CFS, we just have to push the lever back here once. We can then roll up the filament spool by hand until the end of the filament has completely come out of the PTFE tube. We can then thread the filament through the edge, for example, and remove the spool. Next, we’ll take a model from the Creality Cloud. Of course you have to be logged in to download models. For example this cat here. There are various print settings that you can download here. Some models in the cloud are free, but some are also paid. However, there are a lot of models here, most of which are already fully edited with color and settings. I’m going to use the articulated crocodile here. I had already downloaded that. So it’s displayed here directly in Creality Print. Here you can now print the model directly . Once that’s done, some data will be displayed on the left, such as the consumption of the individual filaments and the print time. We can then click on Send to printer again and then on Start printer. The model will then be transferred back to the printer. After the usual heating and calibration, it will start printing straight away. Here we can also see a filament change. Here, the previous filament is cut again, then completely drawn into the CFS before the new color is sent to the print head. The nozzle is then cleaned of the previous filament several times. It prints the new color onto the tower once more and then starts printing on the model again. And depending on the number of color ranges in the model, we will naturally have quite a few filament changes during the print. After printing and the cooling of the print bed, we can then release the model quite easily by bending the print plate. We also have the option of printing models from a smartphone or tablet via the Quality Cloud. To do this, we must, of course, be logged into the Creality Cloud with the device. Then we can select a model via the cloud, for example, like this small vase here. This takes us to a kind of slicer interface. I won’t go into that in detail here either . Here we can Send the model directly to the printer. First, we need to select the printer. We only have the Creity High here. Then we need to select the CFS location, or rather the color, we want to print with. Then the data is sent to the printer, and the printer starts printing normally again. Finally, let’s come to a brief conclusion and an assessment of the prints. Printing with the CFS is really easy, as you’ve seen. Simply insert the filament spools and then push the filament into the tubes. That’s it. The rest is then completely handled by the CFS and the printer. If an error occurs, for example, in the CFS, the print is automatically paused. I had this happen once, for example, when I opened the hood for the video and forgot to close it. The red filament wound up incorrectly when it was pulled in because the pressure button was missing up there. After I fixed that, I was able to continue printing normally, and it completed everything cleanly. Next, let’s take a look at the printers. I don’t have a direct comparison to how the printers look with more expensive printers, but I think the results here are pretty good. As I said, I simply printed these without any further settings. That means they were all printed with 0.2 mm fineness, for example, so not on the finest setting. So let’s first take a look at my YouTube logo. What I generally like about the prints is the underside. It’s slightly rough here; that’s the surface of the print bed. Otherwise, the logo is actually really well printed. I also really like the surface here on the RC and Chrissi. The smaller fonts in the model building videos are a bit messy. There are some tiny gaps in some places, and he didn’t print it quite as cleanly, but I think that’s also because it’s very fine here. That was actually the print he aborted during the last red layer when the filament was fed in incorrectly. He then reprinted the last red layer once I had fixed the problem. After printing continued, everything was finished very cleanly, as I said. Otherwise, I really like the logo a lot; as I said, the small lettering here is a bit messy. Otherwise, I think the surface is really fine. The vase also has that nice underside here, and the rest of the print is also very clean. As I said, it’s all in 0.2 mm stipple. We have a small area here on the edge that isn’t printed so cleanly and is perhaps a bit messy here too. Otherwise, I have to say, the print turned out really clean. I can’t complain about the inside either. Everything is printed very cleanly, and I really like the vase overall . He did a really great job. As I said, I don’t have a direct comparison to expensive printers, but for me, the quality is completely sufficient. Then we come to the most complicated part I printed. Here is the crocodile with the five limbs. I printed it in blue. The ends are actually supposed to be yellow. But I didn’t have any yellow, so I made them green. I think the print turned out really clean. Of course, we have these slight steps here at the slight slopes. But that’s just how it is with FDM printing; it can’t be avoided. I think it will be the same with the more expensive printers. The ends were definitely printed very cleanly, considering they are really small. The eyes, for example, the crocodile’s eyes, were also printed very well. What I also really like is that the color transitions here are really clean. So you can’t see any gradients or anything like that. The ends have a proper finish; they don’t blend into the blue, but the colors are really very well separated from each other. There’s absolutely no complaints there, and I think the crocodile moves really well too. There’s nothing wrong with printing, as it was printed in one piece. There are a few spots here and there that aren’t quite as clean, but as I said, I think the quality could be improved a bit with a few settings, but overall I’m very happy with the print. The amount of waste that’s created here is, of course, insane. For example, with the crocodile we have a print weight of 46 g and a waste weight of 143 g. That ‘s obviously completely out of proportion. It doesn’t make any sense at all, and certainly not economically. I think if you want to do serious color prints here, you’ll have to print each color in individual pieces. My plan was actually to try printing with water-soluble support material, but that’s out of the question here. First of all, printing takes a lot longer because you have to change the filament at least once in every layer. The filament consumption would be far, far, far too high. And I think water-soluble filament isn’t exactly cheap either. That would only make sense if you had a second print nozzle and didn’t have to change the filament all the time. In conclusion, I can say that I ‘m completely satisfied with the printer. For the most part, the prints were very clean. Even complete beginners can achieve good results without much prior knowledge. And I think you can get a lot more out of it if you spend a bit more time learning the ropes, especially with the slicer. The print chamber is also big enough at 260 x 260 x 300 mm, so you can print relatively large items. I think it ‘s a bit of a shame that the CFS can only be placed on the right side of the printer because of the short cable, but this also shortens the filament path to the printer, which is actually a better thing. The camera is a bit of a disadvantage on this printer. It’s definitely very helpful for monitoring the print, but the quality is simply too poor for decent time-lapse recordings . Overall, I think the quality of the printer is perfectly fine, and it also seems really sturdy. We’re talking about a printer that only costs around €300, and in the combo with CFS it’s just €450. In some cases, it’s even a bit cheaper. What I also think is really cool is the magnetic print bed. It’s really practical, as it makes it really easy to remove the prints after printing, but they still stick really well during printing. At least so far. And it also has a second side that you can use. So, I think that’s all fine. I also think the filament with the RFID chip is really cool, but of course you have to keep in mind that it ‘s not cheap and even without the RFID chip it’s not that complicated to set everything up manually. I’d say that’s it for the Creality High Combo. If you haven’t seen my first part on it yet, feel free to check it out. I’ll link it up here. If you liked the video, please give me a like. Feel free to tell me what you think of the combo in the comments below. Feel free to subscribe so you don’t miss any more videos. All that’s left to say is, thanks for watching and I’d say see you in the next video. See you then, Chrissi.
Für den Inhalt des Videos ist der VideoCreator: Chrissi RC verantwortlich.
#Creality #Combo #Teil #MehrfarbenDruck #mit #dem #CFS #macht #sowas #wirklich #Sinn
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