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Pilot-RC FC1 Build – Day 1 – Servos
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It’s finally time to embark on the epic journey of assembling my BIG Pilot-RC Vector FC1! Join me on this thrilling build adventure as I unravel the secrets behind every step, sharing my mindset and the ‘why’ behind my choices. ?️? Stay tuned for potential tweaks and upgrades along the way, as we prepare to launch this beauty into the skies where she truly belongs! ?✈️
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Vollständiger Text aus dem Video: Pilot-RC FC1 Build – Day 1 – Servos
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it’s build day and the fc1 from Pilot RC has been sitting behind me for way too long so today is day one of the build starting the build with the wings unlike most Jets which have the landing gear in the nose and one in each Wing the fc1 has all three landing gear in the fuselage so we just need to install two servos to complete the wings and if we flip this over we can see that the control horns come pre-installed we’ll be installing our Alon Servo in its hatch here and then the flap Servo simply goes into the first rib should be nice and easy Having learned from my J10 and lizard how important it is to save weight when choosing servos for the alons I went with the MKS HV 1220 which is basically the same servos that I have in my J10 why because sure they’re 23 kilos but they’re about 30 gr lighter than every other Servo out there so multiply that by as many servos as the plane has that makes a big difference the kit comes with these brackets to attach the aloon servo to its hatch however even though they look rather strong they are made out of plastic and I’m not too keen on plastic parts in Planes now I’m going to build this thing so as it can last basically forever optimistic I know so I’m going to replace these probably unnecessarily with a metal version which I’m going to make with some aluminium L bracket now even though a bit more work than the originals which just screwed in place with wood screws I’ve had to use nuts and bolts and here we needed to make sure to leave enough gap between this nut and bolt and the head of this bolt because otherwise the nut itself is too tall to fit in the gap which is why I’ve had to put it in upside down and even this is my second attempt but it gives me a lot of Peace of Mind knowing that no matter how many flights I put on this plane and this Servo this Servo is not going anywhere it was also nice to see that included in the kit are all the wi looms needed for assembly including some two to one wires for the wings so we have aons and flaps going into a single Multiplex style connector which is really nice to see that included so just plug in the servos and we’re good to go now in my case sure I’m sponsored by power box but we’re also building this light so I’m actually going to use my own homemade wires with the same principle two to one but this time we’re using the powerbox wire which on average is around about 30% lighter than standard wires so every little gram helps and a quick reminder just to Center our Servo before attaching it and screwing it in place just make sure that everything’s working there we go that’s nicely centered we can now attach our server arm and install it in our plane with all our wires connected it’s time to close up the hatch so we’re going to drill out the holes a little bit first with a smaller drill bit than we need for our screw that way we don’t break any wood when we attach it and personally before doing that I’m going to add a little drab of CI just to make sure that the screw really tacks into that wood that’ll be secured there permanently as much as I would have loved to use the same Servo throughout and save weight on every Servo the flaps on this plane are huge huge and you can get massive deflections from them so the 23 kilos probably weren’t going to cut it that’s why instead I’m going to be installing the MKS HBL 550s with 38 kilos of torque so we’re able to crack out the flaps basically whenever we want not many Secrets here we just need to screw this Servo in that hole the only thing that I’m doing my own little way is that as I’ve done for years now I always replace the servo screws for these ones with an allen head on the top of them simply because they’re a lot easier to uh install they don’t fall off the end uh and I’ve always got these from model fixings. comom in the UK which is a bit of a pain now that they’re out of Europe and you have customs and so on but worth it nonetheless and with those four screw installed and a couple of accessories that’s now our wing finished now I’ve installed the pilot RC aluminium servo arms specifically the 1.2 in versions and as you can see I still haven’t had to use the furthest hole on it and the same applies to the flap horn why well I haven’t needed to even with that position we already have probably more deflection than we need and if we were to use the further hole it’s just going to loosen torque on the servo so best keep it as close as possible on the Alon on the other hand we have had to use the furthest hole because here because of the different position and geometry we likely will need basically all of that deflection at some point or other for anyone building the same plane out of all the push rods that are included in the kit the ones for the flaps and the aons are both the 10 cm versions so roughly 4 in and this is what our two wings look like ready to go all we need need now is the rest of the surfaces and the fuselage time to get cracking the fin and Rudder are very straightforward as we only need to install one Servo and we already have our control horn installed by the factory and the r Servo just nicely slots in its little hole down the middle there for Servo we’re going to be using the same MKS hv1 1220 that we used on aons nice and lightweight and rather usually we’re going to be installing a receiver in the Ruder we may be used to installing two receivers in the nose of the plane around about here right next to each other but being realistic what’s the point if one receiver loses signal chances are the one that’s right next to it will as well I mean the antennas can only go so far apart so let’s make the most of the distance in this plane and have one receiver all the way at the nose and the second receiver all all the way at the back in the tail and we can do all of that without the need for two separate wire looms one for the receiver and one for the servo how though well we start by connecting Our receiver to our power box as usual albeit with a much longer wire now on this occasion because the rudder comes off obviously we also need to put in a separate connector so rather than using a Futaba connector I’ve gone for the powerbox one for one connectors because they have bigger pins you can’t put them in back to front and you don’t need a safety clip so in my opinion they’re far superior to a standard Futaba on the other side of the receiver we have our Servo which doesn’t need to be a bus Servo why because the data or FastTrack output on our powerbox receivers can be changed so that it’s a normal standard Servo signal how well we just go to our radio access the receiver menu and the data out we change it from srxl to pwm which is a normal Servo signal and we change what channel we want it to be so output one or say two which is where I have it programmed as at the moment so in functions you can see I have my Rudder as server number two so now we have a fully functioning Rudder and receiver connected to our power box all through a single wire and with all of that tucked away inside the rudder it all looks something a little bit like this where we have our Servo tucked away at the back with another one of those pilot RC 1.2 in aluminium servo arms just in front of that we can make out our receiver which just above it you have one aerial facing upwards so that’s on one side of the fin on the other side of the fin we have the other aerial facing forwards so that’s two different sides of the fin and two different angles for absolute best possible signals all coming out through a single wire to that one for1 connector 95 mm push rod and even with that short Servo arm we’re still getting significant deflection perfect so that’s one rudder ready to fly and with that we finished installing servos into flight surfaces cuz we’ve got both our wings and our Rudder the elevators on the other hand they’re full flying elevators so there’s no servos in them and the servos are actually in the fuselage which we’ll look into a little bit more in day two along with the vector thrust pipe and everything else in the back of the plane we want to make sure we get things in in the right order hope you enjoyed this video hope to see you again when we continue this build let me know any comments below and I’ll see you all in the next one
Für den Inhalt des Videos ist der VideoCreator: Martin Pickering verantwortlich.
#PilotRC #FC1 #Build #Day #Servos
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18 Comments
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'Promo SM' ?
How I like your videos ??????????
Pesawatnya sangat bagus, tapi mahal
You seem like a smart guy cut the bloody bolt down!
But leave the nut on when you cut it so it acts at a die when you take it off ?
I think Savox 1270TG would be a good choice also? Same weight…. That would be my choice i think.
Very good project rc plane, thank u video
Hi Martin, cool idea with the 26D in the tail. I will probably do the same with my pilot-rc F16 1/5. Do you know if the gyro runs on the rudder if connected on the PB pioneer?
Some nice tips build. Thanks Martin.
That’s no Build that’s an assembly lol❤
observations it appears that the flap servo arm position at zero deflection is wonky. :30 control horns appear to be not correctly located. the location of aileron servo(s) is less-than ideal. the poorly located masses/servos result in the model having a less-stable dom. d
MKS for every build in my Hangar now ??.
Lost an expensive build a few years back to cheap servos.
Very nice looking jet. I want one .
I’m used to spektrum electronics. Having a receiver in the tail just made me go brain dead.
That was an excellent build video Martin! Glad to see you finally have the time to build this beast!
Any ideas or suggestions for improvement are always welcome guys, let me know and lets make this the best FC1 out there!
And to save more weight lose the connector between the tail receiver and the powerbox. just solder these wires 😉 (but still love the build) LOL
To save weight don't use bolts and nuts but put thread in the aluminium profile for the wing servo's 😉
you'd be better off using both of the outer holes on the flaps set up , any play in the ball links allows more angular slop the nearer to the pivot point you go , the further out you can make the linkage from the servo output splines the better.