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5 PRO RC TIPS. Cool Tech Ep2

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Episode 2 of my new series, “Cool Tech, Tips & Tutorials” and we are talking RC TIPS!

5 RC TIPS to help make building your next model easier, faster and safer!

#CoolTechTipsTutorials #Episode02 #PickeringRC

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Martin Pickering

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hey everyone I’m Martin Pickering and welcome to episode 2 of cool tech tips and tutorials [Music] [Music] last week we spoke about cool tech regarding batteries this week it’s time for our seed tips so let’s get straight into it with tip number one how many times have you tried gluing something that’s in a difficult place to reach and your glue drop manages to work its way down your blue stick fall off somewhere that you didn’t want to get glue and you end up not gluing what you actually wanted to well this is a poor little trick which I learned during one of my stays in India thanks to Rinku who showed it to me and it involves wrapping your glue in paper to make a funnel taping it together and then squirting it out almost like a syringe into exactly where you wanted it of course you could use a syringe but who has those hanging about a piece of paper and a bit of tape is easy to come by so it doesn’t matter what kind of glue we’re going to use we just squirt some into one corner of our piece of paper we now fold our piece of paper into a triangle shape making a cone and with our sticky tape simply tape that together cut off any excess and then we cut the tip off the triangle to allow us to square the glue out of a fine nozzle finally just squeeze and glue whatever you need to glue you if like Rinku you want to receive a shout out in one of my videos make sure to leave your best RC tips in the comments below and i will choose the best ones to include in future videos RC tip number 2 attaching your servo leads now this may seem like an unusual one however depending on what model it is that you’re building you may be more or less worried about keeping it light despite the fact that a lighter plane always tends to fly better this ring is especially true when you’re building a 3d jet such as my J 10 in that model I wanted to keep it as light as was humanly possible so I didn’t want to use a load of cable ties and all the usual bases with cable ties and I’m not really keen on the foam-padded supports either so I did the easiest simplest and lightest thing possible which was simply to wrap some masking tape around the servo lead itself and just with a single drop of cyano on the actual masking tape glue it into place now I always use powerbox premium lead because it’s extremely resistant anyway so I don’t normally put it into anything else and that meant that with no added weight I just had the odd piece of masking tape and drop of sign out if at any point you wish to remove the lead you can simply pull it off and it will actually come off quite easily and then you simply remove the masking tape from the wire and that as well will be as new because the sign o has never been in contact with the actual wire itself this allows for a very light set up as well as keeping it very simple very tidy and ideal when looking for lightness RC tip number three now this may be a really easy one and a lot of you out there probably already know it so if you do skip to the next one but anyone who doesn’t is really going to appreciate this one and it’s how to cut round objects now this may sound unusual but if you ever need to cut copper tubing for a hinge line or for your fuel tank or carbon rod for foamy or any other kind of reinforcement you’ll know that if you use a saw it makes a right mess of the job and you can’t use pliers or side cutters especially with copper tubing because it will simply squash it the simple answer is without getting into really complicated or Dremel machines you simply need a knife and a cutting mat or basically any kind of flat surface and roll it while applying pressure after rolling it a couple of times it will actually cook all the way through it will make a really nice clean cut and it will be as if it was machine cut like that in the first place ready to use wherever you want without squashing flattening or sawing anything RC tips number four now this one I get contacted about quite regularly it’s when a server or surface starts jittering or shaking it usually happens to be the rudder however it can apply to any surface be it elevator or ailerons is it because you’re using a low quality servo no it isn’t even the best brands their top-of-the-line servers can have this issue and it’s nothing wrong with the actual server itself what’s happening is we’re not are using quite a long servo arm going onto a ball link onto a rod onto another ball link onto a rather large surface a rudder now because of any minimal amount of slop which is inevitable when there’s so many links the servo is basically struggling to find the exact center because the rudder has some inertia to it the Bowling’s have a little bit of slop in them the so arm has some minimal slop even if there’s a tiny amount and all of that just means it’s struggling to get the exact center that it wants to find for you as soon as you apply some force to that surface it stops moving and that’s exactly what happens when you take off the airflow over the surface actually stops it from shaking it’s applying force to it in the same you do with your fingers so there’s no problem with flying however it looks absolutely terrible when you’re sitting on the ground and your mother’s going this so what’s the solution it’s amazingly simple it’s velcro just stick a small amount of the furry side of velcro onto the rudder in a way that it contacts the surface that doesn’t move that’s going to create a tiny amount of friction between the rudder and the fixed fin which is going to prevent it from shaking sure it may last 50 100 or 200 flights and start shaking again when that happens simply remove the worn-out furry velcro and replace it with another piece of foam velcro and you’re good to go to another fifty hundred four hundred and fifty flights just make sure not to put the other side of the velcro on the other side no surface the idea is we’re not using velcro to stick it’s just because it’s furry it’s soft but it creates a little bit of friction which is all we need to stop that jitter RC tip number five and this is my favorite of this whole video it’s what I use every single time I install a server and it just means that you can get the whole process done a whole lot quicker especially if you have big fingers when you install a new server you first have to attach all the rubber parts and the copper inserts now depending on what server you’re using those copper inserts may be very difficult to fit into the rubber parts once they’re on the server because the tolerances are just too tight and you end up dropping them they go everywhere you hurt your fingers it just isn’t a pleasurable experience well I discovered that if you take a small allen key possibly a small copper tube to fit over the allen key if necessary because it’s a little bit too long and you then insert those copper inserts onto the end of the allen key you can very easily and very quickly insert those into the servo in a matter of seconds there’s no risk of dropping them all over the floor they’re very easy to fit in and no matter how tight that tolerance is they can fit in really quickly and really easily and just push them as hard as necessary until they’re in place and that’s it for this week’s episode of cool tech tips and tutorials it’s being dedicated to RC tips so if you have any of your own make sure to leave them in the comments below as I’d love to read them and take inspiration for future videos don’t forget to tune in next Tuesday for the next episode and if you haven’t already subscribe to get reminded about it thanks for watching and I’ll see you all next week I’m Martin Pickering and I really hope you’ve enjoyed this video make sure to come back every Tuesday for a new episode of cool tech tips and tutorials and on Sundays for flying videos and event coverage or hit that subscribe button and the bell that’s next to it in order to receive a reminder when the next video is uploaded thanks for watching and I’ll see you all in the next one you
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30 Comments

  1. I have always inserted the servo isolation spacers from the top! I don't think it matters as long as you don't tighten the screws so much that it locks the servo in solid, the servo should be able to move slightly on the rubber mounts.

  2. U are definitely my new favorite RC channel, I'm so glad that you do tutorials and do awesome high-quality videos, you are so good at your stunts and your flying, quick question. What is the purple plane behind you? Are they on the market?

  3. my grandmother done that with cake icing and glue for crafts and most people just say CA glue but with your accent it just sounds alot better to here you say it the way you do love the vids and info THANK YOU MARTIN

  4. For a lightweight model or indoor model I would suggest using cyno and steristrips to do the hinges. Simply place one strip on the control surface and then S it around and onto the plane then create the same thing but the opposite way around a slight bit above the first hinge this makes a very strong job and works very well ? this was very complicated so welldone if you understand

  5. Here's my lil' pro tip: Regarding your typical factory assembled PNP and ARF foamies, drop a bit of epoxy on the plastic hinges right out of the box (being careful not to clog the joint) so that the control surface stresses distribute over a bigger area and don't develop free play over time, making the models behave with more precission and improving mid/long-term reliability. 😉

    I particularly enjoyed the 'stop-servo-jittering-with-velcro' tip, but maybe I'd add to glue well the velcro in with contact glue, to make sure it doesn't come off and get stuck as the surface moves if it bends in such a way that impedes surface movement.

  6. Learned something new again! Didn't know about the servo movement not being a problem.I am helping my brother with a Great Planes Extra 300 and his rudder servo was doing that.When a little force is put on it the shaking stops.I told him probably be ok,but he bought a new servo last night.I will let him know why it does that ,thanks and subbed!!

  7. I do a thing where you have to cut a hole on any composite surface like the cowl or the plane itself where your dremel cutting wheel doesn’t fit, I put masking tape and mark the hole with a marker and by using a 1mm drill bit I drill out the marking on the tape ( holes very close to each other ) and then join the holes by the spinning drill bit. Example: holes for fuel dots, powerbox switches, etc.

  8. I just loved the brass insert technique!!!

    For the "builders" out there, here's a nice tip related with the first one on Martin's video:

    When you have to glue the hinges, you can get expoxy easily into the "hinge pocket" (and not everywhere else) by using a thick "drinking straw" piece (about 5cm).
    You pack it with epoxy inside and then you "flatten" the tip and squeeze the expoxy in… …nice and clean.

    (before glueing the hinges, apply a very small bead of sillicon grease on the steel hinge axle to prevent sticking)

  9. Nice tips Martin thank you. Any more on positioning & mounting gear door mini servos please? Struggling with my Fei Bao L39 setup… while converting it to Electron Retracts and doors from air operation… ?

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