BUILDING! the Pilot-RC Slick 103″

BUILDING! the Pilot-RC Slick 103″

Beschreibung zum Video:
We already unboxed the Slick 103″, now it is time to build it! From box to flight worthy, this is the process!

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Vollständiger Text aus dem Video: BUILDING! the Pilot-RC Slick 103″
Hinweis: Text aus der automatischen Spracherkennung aus dem Video ist allgemein bekannt ungenau!

hi everyone and welcome to the build video that unlike the last one the laser rebuild was actually in the schedule that’s right today we’re building the latest model to come out of the pilot rc factory the 103 slick with almost two years worth of prototype design and testing this one promises to be an absolute beast in a previous video we already showed the unboxing of the slick in all its fantastically bright colors with all of its new design features and build techniques so let’s waste no time and let’s roll that intro and get straight to the build [Music] let’s get this build going the quality of the kit and all the quick build accessories and features really take this model to the next level along with all the accessories that come with it as usual with all pilot rc kits meaning you only really need to add all your large accessories so motor and electronics let’s start with the wings scruff up the control horns cut out the slots and trial fit everything before filling with copious amounts of epoxy and letting to dry should you need to remove any excess epoxy do so before it sets using alcohol or acetone next up making the wirings we’re using power boxes one for two connectors so one connector will connect both servos at once we’re just making up the connections so they’re all at the right length ready to go next cut the hole for the servo and use the pre-threaded string to pull through all the extension wires pilot rc does include some safety clips however personally i prefer to use some tape and a drop of cyano just so it can’t come loose and then of course simply screw the servo in adding a tiny drop of cyano to the screw itself to assure that the servo can’t go anywhere then with the included ball links and push rods adjust to the right length center the servo and bolt everything down you can also use a drop of loctite on the bolts to make sure they can’t go anywhere either onto the elevators following basically the same procedure as the wings open up the slots test fit the control horns once scruffed add copious amounts of epoxy insert clean any excess and leave to dry we then install the servo and screw it in as normal moving on to the last flying surface we have the rudder once again open up the servo slot push through the wires join them with the elevator extension leads and then slot them through the tube which brings them out under the canopy ready to install into our receiver or power box then of course screw the servo in place once again adding small amounts of cyano onto the screws to prevent them from going anywhere depending on whether you’re using one servo or two for the rudder you may need to cut part of the control horn off in order to just stick one side out as is my case once measured and cut to the right length we’ll do the same as we did for the elevators and ailerons scruff it up glue it in with plenty of epoxy and then finally attach all the linkages onto the motor the firewall comes pre-installed and with all the right incidences already applied it also comes laser engraved showing where the sensor is if your engine uses the same bolt pattern as mine did and as most popular engines do all you need to do is drill out the four holes that are pre-laser engraved and bolt your engine on once we have the engine installed next step would be to attach the mufflers pilot rc now provides some simple baffles which can be glued to the inside of your cowl all you need to do is glue them in place and then trim as required for the length of your particular engine in my case i’m using hot glue to fix them in place initially so i can make sure that they’re in the right location and then i’m proceeding to add copious amounts of epoxy to glue them in place permanently another great idea to come out of the pilot rc factory is this half transparent spare cowl the idea is that you can simply mark up very easily where your exhausts or any holes need to go and then pass them onto the actual cowl itself without the risk of cutting holes in the wrong place when cutting any kind of fiberglass always use gloves and cover up any exposed skin it’s an irritant and it’s a horrible whole thing to get on you in addition to the required holes for the exhaust make sure to cut the holes large enough to allow the correct escape of hot air as well otherwise you risk an overheating engine if you’re like me you can always have some fun while cutting the cowl to make funny faces smiley faces or as in this case worried faces throttle servo you can either use the provided mount to secure the servo inside the fuselage or use the cutouts on the bottom of the firewall to install the servo there in my case i’m using a smaller server than usual so i’m going to be cutting out a little bit less than normal i’m also going to be using that wood that i take out to reinforce the cutouts and add some extra grip to where the servo screws are going to go the top of the firewall comes ready to be screwed in so we’re simply going to attach our engine ignition unit to it before bolting it in place once again we’re using a little bit of cyano on the bolts to make sure that they don’t come loose at any point in flight once everything’s in place we’re going to run all the rest of the wires leads and plug caps to their required locations and we’re going to cable tie everything down so that nothing can move the fuel tank tray comes ready to accept either one fuel tank which is included in the kit or two fuel tanks if using smoke in either case just thread the velcro through the slots and secure your fuel tank in your preferred method personally i like to add a little bit of velcro under the tank as well as around it making sure that it can’t slip or slide anywhere the fuel dot couldn’t be easier there’s a pre-cut slot in the wood where we just need to open the covering up and screw it in place the same applies to the breather valve which is also included simply open up the covering and screw it in place screw the axles in place followed by the wheel and the block nut the tolerances have been perfectly laid out meaning you can tighten it as much as you want and then the wheel will still turn freely but without any kind of slop once that’s done we can attach the whole landing gear to the fuselage and tighten down securely onto the wheel pants use something to make sure that the rear part is always at the same height on both sides and then mark where to drill the holes remove the wheel pant and drill out the holes and install the captive t-nut behind and use bolts in order to pull it into place and make sure it isn’t going to move anywhere whilst in final installation remove the bolts slide on the wheel pant and tighten down in its final location onto the cowl the two screws underneath need to be drilled out so we’re using masking tape to mark where they are putting the cowl on and then wherever the masking tape goes back to is where we need to drill our holes we’re then going to drill those holes down to four millimeters the same as the bolts and we can then proceed to reinstall the cowling onto the model and here we have our finished model ready to go albeit currently missing one receiver in this picture and just like that we’ve finished the build of our pilot rc 103 inch slick now i am still missing a propeller but that’s on its way to me so as soon as that arrives rest assured we’re going to be packing this thing up heading down to the flying field and putting it through its paces so until then leave us a like subscribe for that next video don’t forget your sunglasses we’re definitely gonna need them and i’ll see them thanks for watching
Für den Inhalt des Videos ist der VideoCreator: Martin Pickering verantwortlich.
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