Descriptions:
Powerbox-Systems iGyro SAT – FULL REVIEW
Beschreibung zum Video:
Powerbox-Systems iGyro SAT video Tutorial, showing how this 3 axis gyro works by plugging directly into a receiver or powerbox.
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Vollständiger Text aus dem Video: Powerbox-Systems iGyro SAT – FULL REVIEW
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hi everyone and welcome to a new video tutorial today we’re talking gyros what’s possibly the smartest gyro on the market at the moment and that is the powerbox systems igyrosat not only is it tiny but it’s smart why because it just plugs in and works what do i mean well basically you can now add gyro capability to the power box receivers or even to new power boxes such as the new power box pioneer basically starting off with a basic product a receiver or power box which does all the basic usual functions simply plug this in and all of a sudden it turns it into a next level you now have gyro integration and no setup to make it work just connect and go you then program it entirely from the radio so no buttons no adapter cards nothing just access the menu adjust it as required go have fun don’t waste time and that’s what we’re going to show you today i’m going to be installing it into my rc factory edge and basically converting the standard receiver that i have in it to an equivalent to say the spectrum as3x so if you like that kind of gyro locked in feeling even in small foamy planes or large jets such as this one that has the same gyro in it well all you need is to plug this into the receiver and you gain the same functionality with even more options so let’s get straight into installing it and then go do some flying before setting up any electric plane it’s always recommendable to remove the prop just to make sure that there’s not going to be any kind of runaways or fly-aways so just one screw we’ll just take the prop off real quick then we’ll get to the setup moving on to the transmitter as with any model the first step is to actually create all the functions and set up the subtrim and end points as required now in this case it’s a very simple model so we just have two alum servos on channel outputs two and five elevator on channel three and rudder on channel four of course we have a throttle channel and then we’ve had to add one extra channel which is controlled by this slider here and that’s going to control the amount of gyro gain input into our model and that’s on output number six once we have our model set up regardless of how simple or complex it is bear in mind i’m using this exact same system for my sab lizard which has delta wing vector elevator vector rudder dual rudders steering brakes etc all of that exactly the same we just add on one gyro gain extra onto the end of it next step is now to start programming the gyro itself now as this is done from the radio in the case of power box and jetty that’s done via the telemetry if you’re using futaba you have to use the bluecom adapter and your mobile device or a usb adapter and your computer however we’re going to be using the core radio so to gain access into that telemetry we need to go into the device to which it’s actually connected now in this case it’s connected directly to the receiver however in the case of my sab lizard it goes via the powerbox pioneer so just bear that in mind you need to access it through whichever device it’s actually connected directly into so we can choose any one of the values for that particular sensor so in this case the receiver any one of those will do because we just need to gain access to the menu of that device so the menu of my receiver so if we open the menu and it’s going to find all the information held on the receiver and on the gyro and it’s going to show me and we can then change it and modify it as required first screen general settings this relates to the receiver itself so we’re going to pretty much ignore that straight away i’m going to move on to the second page and we have fine tuning we’ll get into this in a moment that’s where we adjust all the gyro settings for each one of those channels airspeed factor this only applies if using the igyro sat in conjunction with the powerbox systems gps2 in that case the gyro can have the gain automatically increased or decreased depending on the speed at which you’re flying if you’re not using it you can simply ignore this page entirely input mapping now the gyro needs to know which of the receiver outputs or the pioneer outputs are actually those of the gyro channels that we wish to control so here we have as we said earlier my two alum channels are in numbers two and five my elevator is in channel output number three and my rudder is in output number four now if any of these need changing as i have set up this previously all you need to do is just modify it by decreasing the numbers or increasing the numbers now do give it a second just to update because bear in mind what you’re doing is you’re actually updating the information here that’s being sent off to the receiver the receiver is updating the i gyro the igyro is confirming and it’s sending it back to the transmitter which is when it’s actually showing you the current updated figure and value so just give that a second it can take a little bit longer than you may expect but no more than a second or two and then at the bottom here we have one extra channel which is the gain so it knows which one of all of those channels is the one controlling how much gyro gain we want and need and again just modify that as required to coincide with your chosen slider and finally we have the actual gyro setup itself now here is where we’re going to tell the gyro its mounting position in other words whether it’s laying flat sideways upside down crossed or anywhere as it can be mounted in any direction as long as they’re always at 90 degrees and then we have the stick end points which is going to teach it what the maximum travel is so it’s not going to damage any servos by going beyond the established end points so let’s start with the mounting position we need to activate we’re then going to have to lift the tail up you may need to lift it up and down slightly a couple of times for the gyro to start getting the idea and then lift it up quickly and hold it there the trim will then go back to center and that’s confirming that it’s locked in that position we’ll then have to move it sideways to the right as indicated on the screen do the same again if necessary so the rudder starts moving and then it will lock in place and go back to center so we’ll do that now and just like that the gyro now knows which orientation it has within the model next step the stick end points not only serves to limit the travel of the servo to the endpoints defined within the radio but it will also teach the gyro which way those servos need to correct in order to get the plane going in the right direction in other words assuring that the gyro isn’t reversed that doesn’t mean that after finishing this process you should always double check just to make doubly sure so if we activate and just follow the instructions on screen so aileron right next aileron left next elevator up next and you’re getting the idea elevator down next rudder right and with the left and just like that the gyro now knows its end points because we already set those up before starting this whole process and it also now knows which direction the gyro needs to correct whenever the plane gets buffeted about in the sky in doing this it also detects any other mixes that you have in the radio so if you’re using ailerons as flaps so flapper ons it will automatically detect same as if you have any mixes aileron to elevator to rudder etc it will compensate as it will with differential aileron with that screen completed we can now go back back and back again fine tuning now this is the screen where we said that we can control the actual gain settings for each one of those outputs on the gyro so first of all we have axis selection so we have all those channels that we set up earlier alone a a long b elevator a elevator b rudder a rudder b let’s go back and start with aileron a we then have range selection now each channel has two sets of banks of gyro gain in addition to the third one which is off so basically at zero the gyro is off from zero to minus a hundred is bank a and from zero to plus a hundred it’s bank b in bank a we would have these settings and then in bank b we can have an entirely different load of settings you’ll need to go through each one of these and set them up as you desire for your particular model the gain channel on this is actually controlled not only by this percentage but of course by the slider that we set up earlier what this means is that even if we have our slider all the way over to minus 100 the amount of gain that it’s going to be giving is actually only 70 percent that means that you can limit the maximum gyro gain even within the hundred percent travel of your particular slider going into attitude assist this is also known as heading hold so when that’s deactivated the gyro is only going to try and compensate for those gusts of wind or external influences that just move the plane quickly it kind of bounces out the way and it tries to have it bounce back again if we activate that what that’s going to do is it’s not only going to try and do that but it’s also going to try and keep that model going in that same direction this doesn’t mean that it flies for you it just means that it kind of tends to track a little bit truer in doing so you need to be careful because in my opinion you can use it for ailerons you can use it for elevator but you should never use it for rudder because unless you turn with rudder whenever you do a turn the rudder is going to try and continue going straight because you’re not touching the stick i.e deactivating the gyro the only time when i would recommend having the heading hold or attitude assist activated on rudder is in the case of a 3d jet and even then it should only be activated when you’re already in a hover or a harrier position as soon as you finish the maneuver you would have to deactivate it and go back to only using normal game now that’s quite simple that’s the the gyro settings that we’ve seen previously in most other power box gyros this is where we get into some slightly more advanced techniques and options the characteristic is kind of the speed at which the gyro reacts to those gusts of wind or external influences so if you feel that the gyro is correcting a bit too quick then you can change it down to soft however if you feel that the plane is still being blown about a little bit you can increase it up to a hard or even a super hard ultra hard feel that just means that the gyro is going to react even quicker even sooner to those external influences stick priority this is the one that indicates how quickly the gyro turns off when you move the stick the standard has always been 100 percent so in other words when the stick gets to 100 percent the gyro is at zero the gyro is off however we can increase this so if we increase this to say 200 percent by the time you got halfway there the gyro would be off and then from halfway to 100 percent the gyro simply wouldn’t be there equally albeit a little bit more dangerously use cautiously you can also reduce that which means that even when you do move the stick the gyro remains active now this is particularly interesting for things like 3d jets on the vector because it means you still have control over where the plane’s going however you’re not necessarily changing the attitude or the attitude that the gyro is trying to gain in a lot of cases though if you’re using a standard model you’ll be able to leave that at 100 percent and then finally we have the lock feel or how locked in that gyro feels basically this is the case again of how quickly or how aggressively more to the point that gyro reacts so if you’re using a scale model chances are you’ll want the gyro to be unnoticeable it’s just there to help you out with those few bumps however if you’re flying an aerobatic or a highly aggressive jet well you may want that to be a real sharp stop when you do a four-point roll or an eight-point roll or anything like that in that case you can increase the lock-in feel and have that respond in a much more aggressive way and just make that gyro duck really lock into that position either way all three of these settings need to be tried and tested on each particular model there’s not going to be a perfect setting for everything so take it in small increments try it out see which ones you like see which ones you don’t and find the right setting for you after all you do have two banks remember so you can use bank a with a standard setting and use bank b for example for test if you like it you continue flying in it and then modifying it or if you don’t like it well you can always go back to using bank a which is tried tested and you know that at least you have gyro for the rest of the flight once you’ve done that for a long a you would replicate it normally for aileron b and then you would set up elevator a as necessary and the same again for rudder once you’ve done that go back to the model double check that everything’s working in the right direction make sure you know exactly what’s happening and when for when you’re going to be flying the model have someone with you even if necessary to control that gyro for you if you’re not used to using gyro or releasing fingers from the stick and just do in general whatever you feel comfortable with just always make only very small increments at each time with the gyro and test test test i’m martin pickering and i really hope that you enjoyed this video if you did consider subscribing to the channel for more videos like this one subscribing is always always free and just means that youtube shows you my latest videos once uploaded and you won’t miss out so hit that subscribe button now while at it why not check out my super cool new lineup of t-shirt designs like this one all available in my online merch store with worldwide shipping with several designs and colors to choose between i’m sure that you’ll love at least one of them anyway thanks for watching and i’ll see you all in the next one
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