YuXiang F07S Bell UH-1D mit Höhensensor, Lidarsensor und GPS | Einsteigergeeignet? | Test

YuXiang F07S Bell UH-1D mit Höhensensor, Lidarsensor und GPS | Einsteigergeeignet? | Test

Beschreibung zum Video:
Timeline:
00:00 Einleitung / Introduction
00:28 Lieferumfang / whats in the box
01:24 Bell UH-1 im Detail / closer look
03:52 Der Drehteller / beauty shots
04:37 die Fernsteuerung und Funktionen / transmitter and functions
07:55 Kompass kalibrieren / compass calibration
08:55 automatischer Rückenflug / automatic invertet flight
09:26 Bell UH-1 im Flug / Bell UH-1 in flight
12:56 Fazit / Conclusion

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❗️zusätzlicher Rabatt-Code: CW10 oder CW16

Website Razordon:

available here:

❗️additional discount code: CW10 eo CW16

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Hier zeige ich euch die brandneue Wolfbush YuXiang Bell UH-1 D mit GPS.
Ein richtig schicker genialer kleiner Scaler, der auch für Einsteiger geeignet ist.
Die RTF Version bietet dem Einsteiger alles was man zum fliegen benötigt.
—
Here I show you the brand new Wolfbush Xiang Bell UH-1 D with GPS.
A really ingenious little scaler that is perfect for beginners.
The RTF version offers beginners everything they need to fly.

watch in Full HD 60p

More RC Model Videos on my Channel and Playlists

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@Chrissi RC

ferngesteuerter hubschrauber, rc helicopter review, scale rc helicopter, rc hubschrauber test, Wolfbush bell uh1, Yuxiang bell uh-1, gps, bell uh-1 gps, wolfbush gps, yu xiang gps

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Vollständiger Text aus dem Video: YuXiang F07S Bell UH-1D mit Höhensensor, Lidarsensor und GPS | Einsteigergeeignet? | Test
Hinweis: Text aus der automatischen Spracherkennung aus dem Video ist allgemein bekannt ungenau!

Yes, hello and welcome to my channel for a new video. Today I have another really cool little Bell UH1D for you, the new F07S from Yukiang. The Bell is again beginner-friendly and features GPS, altimeters, and a US Coast Guard design. Today, I’ll show you everything that comes with it. I’ll show you the Bell UH1 in a little more detail, and of course, the remote control and its functions. And as always, we’ll go flying at the end. I’d say let’s get started right away. Have fun. Let’s go. Yes, the Bell UH1 comes in a cool aluminum case. This is also a great place to transport everything later. We’ll open the case and, of course, the first thing we’ll find is the instruction manual in English. Next, we have a bag. Attached to this is the USB-A to USB-C charging cable. There’s a small spotlight that we can connect to the battery later. Of course, some tools, the spare main rotor blades, and a spare tail propeller. In another bag we have the two tail fins, which we need to plug in right away. Next we have the 2s 1200 mAh LiPo battery in the hard case. Here again there is a Slidelock connector. On the side there is a USB-C port for charging and on top there is the power button with status LEDs and a 5 volt connection for the landing light. Next we have the Schicebell UH1. I’ll show you that in more detail in a moment. And finally we have the 2.4 GHz remote control. This time with a dual antenna and, of course, spring-loaded control sticks. Here I have the Schicebell UH1 in my hands. I’ve also already plugged in the side fins. Here too, it’s enough to just plug them in. That ‘s stable enough, because with the tail fins mounted the balls unfortunately no longer fit in the case for transport. I think we have another really stylish model here, with a really nice paint job, this time with a glossy finish and in the US Castgard design. We’ve naturally also included lots of rivets on the fuselage. What I also think is really cool is that the side doors on both sides can be slid open. We’ve also added an antenna and a cable cutter to the front. A lot of details have been molded in here, and the turbine dome is also very nicely rendered. The landing gear is also quite nice, but not as detailed as on some other models. The paint job has also been very cleanly done. Some of the DKs are applied under the clear coat. The logos, for example, are on the clear coat. The entire rotor head is made of metal, as is the main rotor shaft. The swashplate is made partly of plastic and partly of metal. The swashplate is, of course, controlled by three micro servos. On top of the rotor head, we also have the typical UH1 flybar. The rotor blades are black and have three stripes at the ends, just like the tail rotor blades. The main rotor is directly driven by a brushed motor, just like the tail rotor. It is also directly driven by a brushed motor. This is also located on the correct side, on the left in the direction of flight. The windows are tinted and clear, so you can see a bit of the electronics. On top of the turbine dome, we have a small status LED. I’ll show you what it’s for in a moment. Otherwise, we have two position lights on the left and right for lighting: a green LED on the right in the direction of flight, and a red LED on the left in the direction of flight. If you want, we also have the included spotlight below, which we can connect to the battery here. It normally lights up, but in my case, something seems to be wrong with the contacts, so unfortunately, it doesn’t work. As mentioned, the Belle also has a GPS module installed. It’s located behind the cockpit tube. In an emergency, you can also remove it using four small screws. On the underside, we have the Altitude sensors, namely the optical altitude sensor here and the charger sensor behind it. Otherwise, the underbody is kept simple. Here at the front we have the battery compartment again. Here we can simply insert the hardcase Sipo until the two clips click into place. We can then turn the helicopter on by pressing and holding the button, and to take it out we have to press the two clips together again and then we can take out the battery. The Bell has a rotor blade of approx. 370 mm, a length of approx. 380 mm and a take-off weight of approx. 325 g. Yes , we have a 2.4 GHz ATK channel remote control made of plastic. This time with a dual antenna, which you should still unfold before flying. The remote control is a good size and fits well in the hand. The stick assemblies are also made of plastic and the sticks themselves are made of aluminum. Both sticks are spring-loaded in all axes because of the GPS function. The power button is here in the middle at the top. If we hold it down for about 2 seconds, the remote control turns on. At the bottom we have a large LCD display. This shows all the important information. This includes some telemetry data such as altitude, airspeed and direction and of course the flight modes and GPS satellites and also the battery indicator for the remote control and helicopter. Next to the display on the right-hand side we have a button for automatic landing. Then we have another button at the bottom right. This is for FBV flying. We can use it to take photos and record videos. To the left of the display at the bottom we have another button for changing the dual rate or the swashplate deflections. There is Low for lower deflections and High for slightly higher deflections. And above this we have another button for changing the control mode. Here we can choose between Mode 1 and Mode 2. In the middle below the power button there is also a hanging loop for a neck strap. The trim buttons have no function here. Then we have four switches at the top, and on the far right there is a three-position switch. In the upper position we have Optical Flow Mode. This means that the helicopter flies with the help of the optical altimetry and therefore automatically maintains its altitude. However, it is not GPS supported. In this mode the status LED at the top of the helicopter lights up red. In the middle position we have GPS mode. Here the helicopter flies completely with GPS support. This means that it automatically regains altitude and stays in the air when you let go of everything. So it is actually the perfect mode for beginners. In GPS mode the status LED on the helicopter lights up green and in the rear position we initiate the Return to Home function. Of course the Return to Home function is also initiated automatically when the helicopter’s battery is running low. To the left of this we have a two-position switch. This is the motor cut-off switch. If the switch is in the rear position the motor is locked and cannot be switched on. I would still recommend this for safety reasons. And if we want to fly, the switch has to be in the up position so that the motor is unlocked and can be switched on. On the left side we have a two-stage flight mode switch. In the front auto position, either optical flow mode or GPS mode is used, depending on what is set. And in the back position in manual mode we can fly the helicopter completely without elevator and GPS. Here the helicopter continues to drift if we release the sticks. But is of course further stabilized by the gyro. Finally, on the far left we have a VIP switch with which we can fly two autonomous flight maneuvers when auto and GPS mode are activated . If we press the rocker switch forward once, the helicopter automatically goes into a takeoff position and flies from there autonomously under GPS control. And if we briefly press the VIP switch backwards once, the helicopter goes back into a takeoff position and then begins automatic circling. Here, too, altitude is of course maintained via GPS. Both functions can be canceled at any time by moving the stick. And last but not least, we have the battery compartment on the back. This holds 4 AA batteries . Unfortunately, the remote control doesn’t have a handle. Before the very first flight, you should definitely calibrate the compass timer, otherwise the GPS might not work properly. To do this, we obviously have to turn on the remote control and set it to GPS mode . Then we also turn on the helicopter and place it back on a level surface. The status LED flashes yellow. When the status LED flashes green, it has been fully initialized and we can now move the pitch stick down and out in control mode 2 and move the right stick up and out. This puts us in calibration mode for the compass. The status LED now flashes yellow quickly and we need to rotate the helicopter horizontally around the rotor axis until the LED flashes green quickly. Now we need to hold the helicopter upright and rotate it around its own axis until the LED slowly flashes green again if it is still searching for GPS satellites, or flashes green continuously if satellites have already been found. To calibrate the gyro, place the helicopter back on a flat surface. In Mode 2, move the left stick up to the left and the right stick down to the right. The status LED will then flash briefly several times. After that, the LED will light up again according to the selected flight mode. We can initiate inverted flight by flying in GPS mode and at an altitude of at least 8 m. We can then activate the inverted flight function by pressing the Mode button and then, for example, play with the aileron stick to the right to automatically turn the helicopter onto its back. It will then stabilize again immediately, as it remains in GPS mode. And what all beginners will be happy about is that all control functions remain the same as in normal flight, so you don’t have to change your thinking when flying inverted. Using the same procedure, we can then return the helicopter to the normal flight attitude once it has reached the minimum flight altitude. Ah. Yes , at the end of course a short summary. Visually, I think the Bell is a real highlight. I think the color combination is really chic and all the details make the model a real eye-catcher. I also think it’s great that you can open the doors at the back and it looks really impressive in flight. In terms of flying, it does what it’s supposed to. It flies very smoothly and stably and in GPS mode, nothing can really go wrong for a beginner, but even in sensor mode without GPS and in manual mode, the Bell is really easy to fly. What I find a bit of a shame, however, is that the downward collective pitch effect was relatively small for me. At least, that was the case with my model. And what was also negative was that the Bell always went up slightly when turning right and down slightly when turning left. Surprisingly, it did this in DPS mode too, where it was supposed to maintain altitude. You could see that clearly on the eighth flight, for example. It always climbed or descended slightly. Otherwise, everything was great again, as it should be. The inverted flight worked. The controls stay the same as in normal flight position, the stabilization stays the same , and the return to home function works perfectly. All in all, a nice and well-flying model apart from the two issues I had with the difference in altitude when turning and the downward pitch effect. Feel free to let me know in the comments whether you noticed this phenomenon with your models or if it’s just me. Otherwise, that’s it for the video. You can find all the links and discount codes in the video description below. Please give it a like if you enjoyed the video. Don’t forget to subscribe and ring the bell, then you won’t miss any more videos. Thanks for watching. Hope to see you in the next video. See you then, Chrissi. Ciao.
Für den Inhalt des Videos ist der VideoCreator: Chrissi RC verantwortlich.
#YuXiang #F07S #Bell #UH1D #mit #Höhensensor #Lidarsensor #und #GPS #Einsteigergeeignet #Test
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